If you don't think you can get the can off a BA or CB mount, try this. Take a medium or small rubber dead blow hammer and give the rear of the can a few quick hard raps around its circumference. The target area is approx 1" forward of the rear of the can, IE, right over where the brake threads end. (If you don't have a dead blow hammer or rubber mallet, you can use the plastic end of a screwdriver, 2x2 wooden stake, etc.) With the CB/BA muzzle devices and our titanium cans, it's usually best to wait for the can to cool before attempting removal. This has to do with the thermal properties of 17-4 and titanium, but it also has to do with allowing the loctite holding your muzzle brake to your barrel to get hard again. We've only had a few CB/BA cans appear to get stuck and the hammer method outlined above has worked in every case. The only CB/BA cans that have really gotten stuck on the brake were ones where loctite or rocksett was accidentally applied to the brake threads going into the can. The mounting surface and external threads on the BA/CB series muzzle devices needs to be kept reasonably clean and clear of debris. The easiest way to ensure this is to use a small bristle brush to remove excess carbon periodically. Typically if a CB/BA can is hard to remove it's because some carbon got into the threads while screwing it on or it's just caked with carbon in there. The reason the hammer method works is that the shock is transmitted through the suppressor wall and breaks up the carbon. Getting a BA/CB series mount seemingly stuck is pretty rare, but it can happen if the brake really gets carbonned up. I deliberately never cleaned my 30BA brake, which is on a rifle that gets used for training, and I never had a problem with it. But if you do, knowing this trick is an easy way to get the can off. If the brake has come off inside the suppressor, clean the inner brake threads and the muzzle threads, re-apply loctite, and screw the unit back onto the rifle. Wait a day for the loctite to cure and start at the top.